What Causes Sensitive Skin?

Reviewed by Dr. Rishu Gupta, MD, and Valerie George, Cosmetic Chemist

Ever felt a burning sensation on your skin after putting on a cream, or felt like your scalp was itchy after using a hair product?

The average adult uses 30 lbs of personal care products in a year, with women using 12 products a day containing up to 168 unique chemicals, and men using 6 with up to 85 unique chemicals. Exposure to these chemicals can lead to unpleasant skin reactions called contact dermatitis.

Contact dermatitis is a common condition characterized by rashes, bumps, or scales that may itch or burn. It is estimated that 15% of adults will develop contact dermatitis in their lifetime.

In this guide, we will provide an overview on contact dermatitis, what causes it, and how you can best manage it.

Types of Contact Dermatitis: Irritant vs Allergic

There are two main types of contact dermatitis: Irritant and Allergic.

Irritant contact dermatitis (ICD) is caused by repeated exposure to irritants. Irritation can be in the form of chemical substances (soaps, detergents) or physical contact (abrasion, friction) that damages your skin barrier. Symptoms may include:

Swelling
Rashes
Sores
Cracking
Burning
Itching
Soreness

ICD can happen to anyone – in fact, it is prevalent in industries where exposure to chemicals or liquids is frequent, such as healthcare, construction, food, and beauty. Contact Dermatitis developed from a job even has its own name: Occupational Contact Dermatitis. It is estimated that 72% of skin disorders that occur from a job is ICD.

Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) occurs when the skin develops a sensitivity or allergy to a particular substance (the allergen). Repeated exposure to the allergen can trigger an inflammatory response by the immune system and cause the same symptoms as ICD, making it difficult to distinguish if a skin reaction is ICD or ACD.

One of the most common allergens is poison ivy, which 50-70% of the US adult population is sensitive to. 12% of the population is estimated to have allergic contact dermatitis to cosmetics.

How Contact Dermatitis Works

When skin is exposed to an irritant or allergen, skin cells in the affected area kick-start an immune response. For ICD, the offending substance damages skin cells. In response, keratinocytes, cells that make up 95% of the outer layers of skin, release cytokines, small proteins that help cells communicate together. The cytokines cause inflammation, leading to the uncomfortable symptoms of contact dermatitis.

ACD involves a more complex immune response. When skin is sensitized to an allergen, T-Cells, a type of white blood cell, are recruited to help defend against the allergen. T-Cells also release pro-inflammatory cytokines whenever the skin comes in contact with the allergen, leading to the symptoms of contact dermatitis.

The Biggest Culprits in Cosmetics

Certain cosmetic ingredients are highly implicated with causing contact dermatitis. Some of the biggest culprits include:

Preservatives: Preservatives help increase the shelf life of products, but are often the leading cause of ACD, with one study showing 27.7% of cases were caused by preservatives.

While we don’t recommend avoiding preservatives as they are needed in water-based products to prevent the formation of harmful microbes, some preservatives may be more likely to cause contact dermatitis. For instance, Methylisothiazolinone was named 2013 Allergen of the Year by the American Contact Dermatitis Society.

Fragrances: Fragrances are also a very common cause of ACD, accounting for 23.7% of cases in one study. Even natural fragrances, like essential oils, can cause reactions in sensitive individuals.

If you have sensitive skin, it may be best to purchase fragrance-free products. Beware though, products marketed as ‘unscented’ may still contain masking fragrances which can trigger allergies.

Surfactants: Surfactants are chemical compounds used to help emulsify ingredients that would normally repel each other, such as oil and water. They are also a key ingredient in cleaning products, helping lift dirt off surfaces. Soaps, detergents, and shampoos all contain surfactants that can cause ICD. The main factors that can cause surfactants to be irritating include:

Level of concentration
Method of application
Frequency of use
Duration of use
Application to damaged skin

If you are sensitive to surfactants, it may be best to use “gentle” products designed for sensitive skin and to keep your skin moisturized between washing.

Botanicals: Although they are often marketed as 'natural' or 'organic,' botanical oils and extracts can still cause allergic reactions. One study in New Zealand found that 11.6% of a patient population tested positive for a plant allergen. Examples of botanicals include tea tree oil, rosemary, and lavender oil.

If you have sensitive skin, it is important to understand how your skin reacts to botanical ingredients before using products containing them. You can do this by patch testing oils first to see how your skin reacts.

Preventing and Treating Contact Dermatitis

Below are 5 tips for preventing contact dermatitis.

Patch testing: If you have a history of skin reactions, be cautious about trying new products. Conduct a patch test on a small area of skin for 7-10 days before fully using a product. Simply apply a normal amount of product on a small patch of skin where it is least likely to be rubbed off, such as right below your jaw on your neck. Look for any signs of irritation each day.

Also remember to patch test hair products. Shampoos and conditioners can leave residue on your skin after a shower, and hair styling products can run onto the scalp and forehead throughout the day, causing contact dermatitis.

When patch testing a rinse-off product, dilute it with water to a 1:9 ratio (product to water) before patch testing. This will help simulate the residue leftover when using a rinse-off product.
Read labels carefully: Look for products that exclude ingredients that might be sensitizing for you. You can discover which ingredients you are allergic to by doing a patch test with your dermatologist or allergist. Remember, 100% natural does not mean a product will be safe for your skin. In fact, the botanical oils and extracts in natural products can cause more irritation compared to synthetic ingredients.
Simplify your routine: The fewer products you use, the less likely you are to encounter an irritant or allergen. Seek products that have fewer ingredients (less is more) or that are approved by the National Eczema Association, as they are less likely to cause contact dermatitis.
Moisturize regularly: Moisturizing helps protect your skin's barrier, keeping irritants and allergens out. Particularly use a moisturizer safe for sensitive skin on areas you are experiencing irritation.
Seek professional help: If your symptoms persist, consult a dermatologist. They may recommend treatments like corticosteroid creams or oral antihistamines that can help relieve and prevent symptoms.

What we do at Ochre

We’re a team who has personally experienced the challenges of acne, eczema, and dandruff, and are passionate about creating products that we love and work for us.

Our products are meticulously designed to keep your hair, scalp, and skin healthy. Our haircare line is:

Hypoallergenic: we exclude 600+ ingredients that are show to be more irritating.
Accepted by the National Eczema Association: we formulated and tested our products to meet the rigorous standards set by the National Eczema Association.
Microbiome balancing: we include our proprietary blend of natural ingredients that effectively clean the scalp while balancing your scalp’s microbiome.

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